Sorry for the delay in posting recently. Maine's wilderness is partly to blame, my inability to stay awake past 8:00 is partly to blame. I should have some up in a few days, then I will be in the 100 Mile Wilderness for a week and out of touch. I am healthy and doing well though, having crossed over the 2000 mile mark.

Friday, August 29

It was a long 15 miles today. We started by climbing to the summit of Mt. Washington. Just a minute after we arrived, clouds closed in but its was still nice up there. Mt. Washington is famous for heavy winds and bad weather but today was good.

Approaching Mt. Washington


Worst weather in America


Orion and I spent some time loitering around the summit. There is a road, a gift shop and a snack bar. Not too much wilderness here in the White Mountains. After that we went down Washington and up Mt. Madison with no problem. The long, rocky descent into Pinkham Notch was a killer though. Slow and tough on the knees.

On the summit of Mt. Washington.


I was tired and legsore when I got into the notch. I didn't know where I was sleeping but I knew it needed to be an easy walk to get there. Luckily, Sparky and Stubby had a house nearby and invited Orion, Slow Train, Easy Does It and I to stay. Its a nice house. I'm almost out of Ibuprofin, which is a level three crisis, but Sparky is taking me to get more in the morning.

All's well.

Pinkham Notch, NH. Today-14.8 mi. Total-1857.2. Remaining-319.0.

Saturday, Aug. 30

We stayed up way too late at Sparky and Stubby's, got a late start and hiked slowly up tough Wildcat Mountain. I'm camping with Love Boad, Easy Does It, Slow Train and Frat Dog. Here are some people updates:
-Extra, who I last saw icing shin splints in Montebello, VA, caught up. He is either ahead of me or just behind me depending on who took a break last.
-Spiritwalker quit. He had a job opportunity he couldn't pass up.
-Bear Bait walked off, no reason given. She told her partners she was taking a half-day off. A week later they heard she was gone.
-Chow Time got all new gear from an internet mogul who went backpacking for the first time and hated it. He gave all his brand new gear to Chow Time.
-Animal and that group are three days ahead of me now. I'm not sure I can catch them. We'll see.

Mountain Cranberry. Edible but very sour.


All's well.

Zeta Pass, NH. Today-8.5 mi. Total-1865.7. Remaining-310.5.

Sunday, August 31

I had easy walking into Gorham. Maybe the easiest in New Hampshire. I got an early start and moved well. It was fun to drop under 300 miles remaining. I hiked down the last mountain with a pair of day-hikers, Bill and Carolyn. They are a father/daughter trying to do all the 4000 foot peaks in New Hampshire. They have 40 of 48 done. The two were nice enough to offer me a ride into town, saving me a three mile walk. I'm resupplied and resting.

All's well.

Gorham, NH. Today-12.6 mi. Total-1878.3. Remaining-297.9

Monday, September 1

I took an unscheduled zero day today. I have a cheap but clean motel room and I feel very tired. I got out of bed, stumbled around waiting for my legs to loosen up and they never did. I'm resting myself for a day.

While looking for internet access, I ran into Duck and Buttercup. The last time I saw them, they were resting injuries at the Mayor's hostel in New York. It was great to see them still moving north. They have decided to get married right after the trail. They have been dating a few years and thought that if they could finish the trail together they would be together forever. They plan on finishing on the 22nd and getting married October 4.

Do I keep saying that I meet great people out here? A hiker friend of Duck's found us while we were having lunch. He said that his dad had just died. Duck helped him make is airplane reservations then helped him with his bus reservations to get to Boston Logan. Duck kept him company until it was time for him to go. I know good people.

All's well.

Gorham, NH. Today-0 mi. Total-1878.3. Remains-297.9.

Tuesday, September 2

I'm camping with a group of Harvard U. freshman who are our for freshman orientation. I'm also too tired to write so I'm enlisting a guest author. This is Free Wil's take on the Whites and the first part of Maine. He can be read at: http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=251400

Just a quick update on progress. After fearing the White Mountains of New Hampshire for most of the trek I finally arrived about 10 days ago. My luck with weather (in all states but Vermont) continued and the weather was very good in these mountains which potentially can have snow and high winds any day of the year. The Whites were challenging and fun with great rewards for the supreme effort required. My knees and feet will never forget them, but the views I had progressing through this magical place far outweighs the cost. I did work-for-stay in three of the huts so was well fed and relatively warm at night in the above treeline alpine environment. Connie visited just prior to my ascent of Mt Washington so I had a nice zero day to rest up. Mt Washington was appropriately cold and in the clouds as I made my way up it and (not suprising to those that know me well)I loved the 70 mph wind gusts and the fact that I had to climb it without my glasses due to the mist making the glasses much worse than being virtually blind. At the summit the clouds parted for a bit allowing for views and good picture taking. I exited the tough part of the Whites several days ago and confronted the challenges of Maine starting the Mahoosic Notch and the dreaded "Arm" just afterwards. Well my hiking partner Micro Manfeet and I thumbed our collective noses at what everyone said was too much to do in one day and hiked 15 miles across the boulder strewn notch and up the arm so I could be in position to meet Connie again on the labor day weekend. And all Micro got out of it was a big breakfast that Connie brought out to the trail. At this stage a big breakfast is plenty worth it! So now I'm in the final state and 267 miles from Mt Katahdin and I'm both going to push on to the end and to savor every minute of the experience. I think I deserve to call this last three weeks of the trek a vacation and just enjoy, enjoy, enjoy... Peace, FreeWil

Thanks Wil. I'm going to bed. All's well.

Gentian Pond. Today-11.8. Total-1890.1. Remains-286.1

Wednesday, September 3

I got into Maine today. Maine is hard. I left the Whites and started the Mahoosuc Range today. The Mahoosucs are rocky and steep. The good news is that the weather is great and my total exhaustion is making me sleep well. Since I am near a computer, I am bringing in another guest author. This is Animal's blog:
http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=252095

Well I forget the last time I wrote in the journal so if I repeat some things, sorry about that. I am currently in Rangeley, ME and just over 200 miles left. I tell you once I hit the Maine border it was great, but it has definitely been a mental test for me. All of us thru-hikers are really drained now. The terrain has been much harder and should lessen up once we hit the 100 mile wilderness. We had to climb or scramble through the Mahoosuc Notch considered to be the hardest mile, which was great but the miles have dropped some and I feel like I am getting nowhere. My first veiw of Katahdin should be within a day or two, which will help tremendously. Hopefully, the rain will hold off most of the remainder of the trip. I heard the hurricanes have been lining up out in the ocean. All of us are just mentally tired and it is a huge test for everyone. Please keep me in good spirits. I will fight to the end and accomplish this great journey. It has been great and still more to come. Maine is awesome and beautiful, so pristine. White beaches and so many lakes and ponds. It is great and so quiet. Well I am out for now to take care of some things and head back on the trail....until a later date...

I agree. Maine is hard. I'm not doing many miles either. It is pretty though.

All's well.

Full Goose Shelter. Today-9.6 mi. Total-1899.7. Remains-276.5.

Thursday, September 4.

Another day, another guest author. That's how tired and lazy I am. This is Bilge Rat, who is right. Mahoosuc Notch was fun, Mahoosuc Arm was hard as could be.

What a day! My legs and feet felt a little better this morning and I left the shelter at 7:30 heading for the Mahoosuc Notch. It is supposed to be the most difficult mile on the trail, but I disagree. The notch was awesome. Very challenging indeed, but fun nonetheless. I made it through in 50 minutes. Some of the boulders were the size of a small house and required climbing over, under and around. I did see a moose, albeit a dead one......figures. Oh well, I hope to see one before this journey ends. After the notch, is the Mahoosuc Arm. It has an elevation gain of 1585 feet over 1.6 miles, and THAT is what kicked my butt!
I made it to a shelter by lunch and decided to eat and relax for a bit before I moved on to the next shelter where I planned to stay for the night. When I made it to the next shelter, it was only 3:30. I still had a little energy left, so I decided to hike on to another shelter 3.5 miles down the trail. I left at 3:45, had a butt-kicking climb and then breezed into my final stop for the day at 5:35.

I felt good when I got there, but after a bit, my body was screaming for food. I cooked dinner and then had a nice big cup of coffee while I lied down to read. My company at the shelter tonight was: Rodeo, Raccoon, Bar Fight, Barackus, Extra, Tetris, Walka-Walka and New York Minute. Another Beautiful day!

Thanks Bilge Rat. He can be read here:
http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=251968

I'm tired but otherwise good. All's well.

Baldpate Lean-to. Today-12.0. Total-1911.7. Remains-264.5.

Saturday, August 23

It was really hard to watch Animal, Micro, Bilge Rat, Rodeo, Banjo, Half-Elvis, and Thoughtfoot walk on and leave me and my sore leg behind. My leg doesn’t feel any better though so I didn’t see much choice besides staying in town. There are three others in the hostel today. One is a 19 year old southbounder whose parents are pressuring her to come home. She does seem lost. The others area pair of recent University of Georgia grads. They are very friendly and pleasant. The don’t like their trail names and usually introduce themselves as Jason and Kelly.

Chet is still letting me work for my stay at his hostel. My job today is to check in hikers as they come in and show them around. Chet was a hiker and outdoorsman until his camp stove exploded as he tried to light it. He lost most of his vision. He really likes hikers and spends a couple of hours a day sitting in the sun swapping stories with us.

Chet's Place


I spent my morning in the library. Thanks so much for the calls, emails, and text messages of support.

All’s well.

Lincoln, NH. Today – 0.0 mi. Total – 1803.5 mi. Remaining – 372.7 mi.

Sunday, August 24

My leg felt better so I started to hike again. Besides, I couldn’t stand to sit around anymore. I got a few miles in at least. My leg was mostly cooperative as long as I was careful with my foot placement. I hiked with Jason and Kelly. We weren’t fast but we got to Greenleaf Hut after great views from Mount Lincoln.

Clouds covering Mount Linclon


Me on Mount Lincoln


The huts in New Hampshire are a little different. They are owned by the Appalachian Mountain Club who charge a hefty $70 for a bunk, dinner, and breakfast. They are popular with New Englanders looking for a tame wilderness experience. They are tough for thru-hikers because the AMC huts occupy flat spots near streams where shelters or campsites would usually be. There aren’t many places out here to sleep besides the huts. Most thru-hikers can’t afford the huts so the joke is that AMC stands for Appalachian Money Club.

Over the years, the AMC and thru-hikers reached a compromise. The huts let a few thru-hikers stay each night in exchange for labor. Tonight I did some dishes and scrubbed the range. For my work I got a dinner of stuffed pasta shells and I will get a spot on the floor for my sleeping bag.

Equipment Notes:
- My pack cover quit being waterproof. Vermont killed it. Water soaks right through now.
- My Merrell shoes are doing well. They are heavier and better for the rocky White Mountains than the North Face Trail Runners would have been.
- One of my many falls in Vermont bent my hiking pole. It’s still usable.
- When backpacking you can’t possibly have too many Ziploc bags or bandannas.

All’s well.

Greenleaf Hut, NH. Today – 6.4 mi. Total – 1809.9 mi. Remaining – 366.3 mi.

Monday, August 25

My leg was much better climbing yesterday than on the downhill today. The doctor said it would be sore for two weeks. Looks like he might be right. I got to Galehead Hut early in the afternoon planning on hiking a few more miles then tenting somewhere. Then the hutmaster showed me the forecast – 30 degrees, 40 mph winds, and a chance of snow. I got a work-for-stay job and a warm spot on the floor.

There are about ten of us in here hiding from the weather, along with 30 paying guests. Part of our work assignment was giving an entertaining talk about thru-hiking to the rest of the guests. That was a lot of fun and people asked lots of questions.

Kelly, Jason, Love Boat at Galehead


Not much going on. A southbound thru-hiker told me that Bojangles showed up with beer and snacks for Animal, Rodeo, and company. I’m jealous.

All’s well.

Galehead Hut, NH. Today – 6.6 mi. Total – 1816.5 mi. Remaining – 359.7 mi.

Tuesday, August 26

I might have written before that I am getting a little bored. The hiking and camping I used to find exciting have become routine. I’ve been looking for adventure to break up the monotony. I got it today . . .

I felt really good despite the tough conditions, I woke up to 40 degrees with 40 mph winds. I wore long pants, t-shirt, long-sleeved shirt, fleece sweater, and a rain jacket along with a wool hat and gloves. Even with all that I made good time, putting in seven miles by 11 a.m., a much better pace than I managed the last two days. I stopped at Zealand Hut for hot soup thinking I’d wait for Jason and Kelly to catch up before pushing on. That was when it got interesting.

Leaving Galehead. 40 degrees, 40 mph winds


View from South Twin Mountain


I was chatting with two thru-hikers, Free Spirit and Hike On, as well as a girl on the Zealand Crew named Erica who had a huge head of dreadlocks. Two college aged girls came in looking troubled. They told Erica that their friend had fallen and broken her ankle. There was a litter at the hut but their hiking group was made up of 12 Brown University undergraduate coeds and two men. They didn’t think they could carry Mary Rose down. She couldn’t have been happier when I asked if they needed more help. They had a three mile trip on a rocky downhill trail until they hit a road. One of the college girls, Gillian, also got a southbounder, Chow Hound, to help.

Erica was really nice to us. She held onto our packs, gave us a big slice of coffee cake for the hike, and a flashlight in case we ran late. She also promised to let Jason and Kelly know where I went and to save a big piece of lasagna for our dinner.

Gillian had a good first aid training and had Mary Rose in a wilderness splint using a sleeping bag, pad, and some straps from a pack. We started around 1:00 p.m. and didn’t get to the road until after 7:00 p.m. Every step was tough because we couldn’t see our feet or the things we were tripping over. We were all game but none of us had done this before. We hurt Mary Rose a few times as we learned how to move her smoothly. I could write papers about the trip but I’m going to stop with a couple of points.

Litter Party I


Litter Party II


- If you want an idea for a small business, design and build a better emergency litter. Preferably with an adjustable harness for carrying. Our litter was a piece of junk.
- The Brown girls are the smartest, most mature bunch of 19-year olds I expect to come across. One day I’ll be working for them or for someone who works for them.

We finally got to the road and were met by a Brown University Dean and an off-duty EMT who helped load Mary Rose into an SUV for a 45 minute drive to the hospital. The EMT and her husband are both former thru-hikers and they offered to put us up for the night if we wanted. We did want a shower and we didn’t want to race nightfall up the mountain so we took her up on her offer. I can’t speak for Chow Hound but I was tired. We ate cheeseburgers at her husband’s restaurant and I’m sleeping in a bed tonight. More than that, I had my adventure.

After reaching the road - Chow Time and I in front kneeling


All’s well.

Don’t Know, NH. Today – 7.0 mi. Total – 1823.5 mi. Remaining – 352.7 mi.

Wednesday, August 27
I started my day with eggs and pancakes cooked by the former thru-hiker, Stacy. She drove Chow Hound and I to the trailhead and we hiked uphill to the Zealand Hut to reclaim our packs. Needless to say, it was a late start.

Erica had our packs ready and mine had a nice note from Jason and Kelly. They left their schedule for the next couple of days and told me how nice I was for helping Mary Rose. I don’t mind admitting that I did it for fun but if they want to think better of me, I’m okay with it. I meet so many really great people like them out on the trail that I sometimes feel like the Grinch when his heart grows three sizes. If we were anyplace else we probably would have nothing in common and would probably never talk.

I hiked alone today and stopped at a store at Crawford Notch to resupply. They had some silicon waterproofer for my tent so I treated it in their yard. They let me stay there.

All’s well.

Crawford Notch, NH. Today – 7.2 mi. Total – 1831.2 mi. Remaining – 345.0 mi.

Thursday, August 28

I hiked alone all day yesterday but was surrounded by thru-hikers today. I planned on summiting Mount Washington this afternoon but got a better offer. Peach and Fuzz, who I hiked with in Virginia, had reservations as guests at Lake of the Clouds Hut. That’s a $90 reservation each. A friend of theirs in the area wanted Peach and Fuzz to stay with them so they gave the reservations to Orion and me. So, I get dinner, breakfast, and a bunk in between. Luxurious, except that the bunks were tiny.

Climbing Mount Washington. Slow Train in Foreground


Peach and Fuzz


The hiking was great today. The views were incredible. A French-Canadian section hiker named Michele hiked with us and he was a great guide. He knew every mountain out here. Besides Peach, Fuzz, Orion, and Michele, I hiked with Slow Train, Easy Does It, Sparky, Stubby, and Babu.

Panorama from Mount Pierce


It was hard climbing the Mount Washington ridge but it was worth the effort once we got above tree line. I think New Hampshire is becoming my favorite AT state, although I still love Southern Virginia. The White Mountains rock, hut food rocks, the people I’ve hiked with rock, and I’ve had great adventures.

Lake of the Clouds Hut


Lake of the Clouds Bunkroom


All’s well.

Lake of the Clouds Hut, NH. Today – 11.2 mi. Total – 1842.4 mi. Remaining – 333.8 mi.

Wednesday, August 20

The hiking was incredible today. I came out of Glencliff with Micro, who I just met, and Free Will, who I have known since North Carolina. We climbed about 4,000 feet in four miles to the summit of Mt. Moosilauke. The first part was dull but the last mile up was amazing. We got above “tree line,” the altitude at which cold and wind keep trees from growing. With no trees the view was amazing. We rushed up the slope with Banjo and Half-Elvis and spent a while taking pictures of each other. It was windy enough that the gusts staggered us but it was great fun.

Mt. Moosilauke above tree line.


The Summit


Banjo, Half-Elvis, and Micro


The view towards the White Mountains, Mount Washington in center rear.


The way down was just as good. The trail followed a steep mountain stream. It was so steep the trail builders had drilled metal rods into the granite to use as handholds and footholds. It was slow going but it was gorgeous and fun. When we got down we found our trail angel, Tank, waiting with a backpack full of beer. Tank offered us a ride into town. We are staying at a hostel owned by a really super guy named Chet. My old friend Barfight is here also. She skipped Vermont to catch up. No loss.

The steps and the cascade down Moosilauke



Me and Micro


All’s well.

Lincoln, NH. Today – 9.5 mi. Total – 1787.2 mi. Remaining – 389.0 mi.

Thursday, August 21

In a strange fluke of trail geography, if we could manage a hard 16 miles today we would hit another road crossing that leads back to Lincoln. So we left all out overnight stuff at Chet’s, lightening our packs dramatically, and pushed over Mt. Wolf and North and South Kinsman Mountains. It would have been hard hiking but with light packs I did fine. I hiked with Micro, Banjo, and Half-Elvis. Barfight is from here and told us about a great overlook on a side trail near North Kinsman. We spent some time lounging there.

Me in front of the Franconia Ridge


Micro and Tank


Micro and I both have sore legs so we were slow coming down but we made it. I hurt my leg stepping through a gap in a boardwalk over a swampy section of the trail. With the wet year this area is having, the swamp had risen above the boards and I didn’t see the gap. No big deal but it got sore as I walked on it. No big deal but it got sorer the longer the day went on. It slowed me down but I’m back to Chet’s now.

The 1,800 Mile Mark!!!


All’s well.

Lincoln, NH. Today – 16.3 mi. Total – 1803.5 mi. Remaining – 372.7 mi.

Friday, August 22

That “no big deal” leg problem was swollen, red, and painful this morning. I was limping noticeably. I took a day off to get it checked out. The doctor says I have a bone bruise. It’s painful but it won’t stop me. He wants me to rest it until Monday and expects it to be sore and slow me down for the next two weeks. Nothing to do for it except ice and ibuprofen.

Micro zeroed also to rest her sore leg. Banjo zeroed because of stomach problems from drinking untreated water. Hal-Elvis zeroed because Banjo is his girlfriend. I’ve got lots of company. Chet put us to work cleaning the hostel. We scrubbed the bathroom and kitchen and leaned a refrigerator. After that, we had the afternoon to ourselves. We saw a movie and ate a lot. People bond very quickly on the AT. I’ve known Micro for four days but she feels like a friend of many years to me. She and everyone else will hike out tomorrow while I sit here. Yuck!

Otherwise, all’s well.

Lincoln, NH. Today – 16.3 mi. Total – 1803.5 mi. Remaining – 372.7 mi.

Saturday, August 16

Just as I was getting ready to walk out of town, Bilge Rat and animal walked into town. We decided to split a motel room so I am zeroing. My legs and feet need it anyway. That brings me back to 14.5 miles per day needed to finish by September 16. I’m feeling some pressure because summer is moving fast here in the Northeast.

The Inn at Long Trail (where I stayed on August 12).


Also, A Photo from the VT/NH State Line.


A month ago I could hike until 9:00 pm if I wanted. Now it is dark by 8:00. A couple of weeks ago I took a picture of me in front of tall corn. Yesterday I passed a harvested cornfield. The blooms are off the wildflowers and it is starting to get cold at night. I bought some long hiking pants but I haven’t been hiking in them. I save them for nighttime. I’m looking forward to getting my fleece top and heavy sleeping bag back (Thanks Mom and Dad). Here in Hanover, the Dartmouth students are starting to come back. Fall is coming. Hiking out tomorrow.

Snake.


All’s well.

Hanover, NH. Today – 0.0 mi. Total – 1734.3 mi. Remaining – 441.9 mi.

Sunday, August 17

My Shadow.


Steep climbs today as I went into New Hampshire. I’m camping with Half-Elvis and Banjo. All of us seem to be having energy problems. I think it is a diet problem. I’ve got a really nice tent spot at least.

Photo of Where's Karl RV...Story from his website follows photo.


[On August 5, 2008, uber ultra-runner Karl Meltzer set off on the biggest race of his life. His challenge: to run the entire length of the 2,174-mile Appalachian Trail in less than 47 days. Definitely daunting. Absolutely grueling. Probably insane. But when he does it, he’ll rule the AT as the guy who conquered it, all of it, the fastest on two feet. This is going to be Man vs. Nature, Man vs. Self, Man vs. Clock – and it’s going to be good.]

All’s well.

Moose Mountain Shelter, NH. Today – 11.0 mi. Total – 1745.3 mi. Remaining – 430.9 mi.

Monday, August 18

I did good miles today over tough terrain but I’m tired. Cold also. I can’t wait to get my cold gear tomorrow. The hiking weather has been good the last two days but it is pouring now. I wish I had set up in the shelter instead of pitching the tent.

Slug eating mushroom.


A retired couple gave banjo, Half-Elvis, and I water and ice cream bars. That was my highlight.

All’s well.

Hexacuba Shelter, NH. Today – 17.7 mi. Total – 1763.0 mi. Remaining – 413.2 mi.

Tuesday, August 19

My day got off to a rough start. One of the corners of my tent sprung a leak and I took in a lot of water. Then it rained all morning as I hiked. I’m going to try some seam-sealer in the tent but I’m not confident it will work.

I pushed for town to be sure of making it before the Post Office closed. I got there with a half-hour to spare so I have my winter gear again. Its great to have the thick sleeping bag and the fleece again but my pack feels awfully heavy.

I’m staying at the Hiker’s Welcome hostel. Baltimore Jack, an eight-time thru-hiker is cooking dinner for all. The Olympics are on the TV.

Hiker's Welcome Hostel. Notice changing leaves.


Hot Cheese, Packrat, Bag of Tricks, and 8-times thru-hiker - Baltimore Jack.


All’s well.

Glencliff, NH. Today – 14.7 mi. Total – 1777.7 mi. Remaining – 398.5 mi.