Friday, July 11
We did the easy walk into Port Clinton today. On the trail you don’t just get a wilderness experience, you learn about small-town life. Now that I have been in a few Pennsylvania towns I have learned to read their history in their architecture. These are old industrial towns that were founded on coal mining and steel working.
Historic Marker
Port Clinton Anthracite Coal
The civic buildings, City Hall or the police station, were built a hundred years or more ago during the first rush of affluence that came when PA coal and steel was rebuilding the major cities of the world. They are made of stone, solid and substantial.
The houses are newer. Maybe they were built in the 40s or 50s to house factory workers. At the time they were built, they were respectable middle class homes for hopeful families. Now the brick row houses and shotgun houses look worn and hopeless. Urban renewal won’t ever strike PA’s rust-belt towns. Their heavy industries are gone. When I was a child the steelworker pouring molten metal into a mold was an iconic image of America’s strength. Today that image is slowly fading into history.
There is a little industry left. I’ve seen a brewery, a lumber yard, and a mobile home manufacturer. I’ve also seen a lot of businesses catering to an aging population, like hearing aid retailers. I don’t know what will be left here in 20 years but I’m glad to have seen it now.
All’s well.
Port Clinton, PA. Today – 8.6 mi. Total – 1205.3 mi. Remaining – 970.9 mi.
Saturday, July 12
When Philadelphia natives brag about Philly-made cheese steak sandwiches, I always thought it was a harmless regional boast. After all, why would cheese, steak, onions, and peppers on a bun taste better in PA than in Texas? Well I can’t explain it but it does. I’ve had two awesome cheese steak sandwiches in PA, one in Pine Grove, one in Port Clinton. Maybe something about the meat’s preparation? I don’t know. Maybe I’ll figure it out in the next town.
Quick Notes:
- Day hikers smell funny. Clean. Thru-hikers have no smell to my nose.
- Cabela’s, a big outfitter, replaced my malfunctioning Katadyn water filter.
- Earlier in the hike, people would ask me where I was going and I’d say “I’m trying for Maine.” With 1,200+ miles done I now confidently answer “All the way to Maine.”
All’s well.
Port Clinton, PA. Today – 0.0 mi. Total – 1205.3 mi. Remaining – 970.9 mi.
Sunday, July 13
The first day out of town is always tough. My belly is full of high-fat food. I always start with a climb since towns tend to be in valleys. I always get a late start from my comfortable town bed. I always have a heavy pack from my town resupply. I may have had an adult beverage while in town. Despite all that I had a fun day because I met interesting people.
I met a woman who brings snacks to the trail hoping to trade for thru-hiking stories. I’m perfectly willing to sing for my supper. She gave me apple slices, I told her about the North Carolina bears.
The encounter I really enjoyed was with a couple coming down the hill I was climbing. As we approached each other the girl sang in a soft but pretty voice “Left a good job in the city.” I knew the words and I did leave a good job in the city so I sang the next line with her, “Working for the Man every night and day,” just as softly.
As we passed each other she yelled “Woo!” and went into the rest full volume using the R&B tempo Ike and Tina use in their version. I stumbled over the first few words after she changed tempos but kept up after.
“And I never lost one minute of sleeping
Worrying bout the way things might have been
Big wheel keep on turning
Proud Mary keep on burning.”
We did the “Rollin, rollin’s” as we passed out of earshot.
Nothing else to report except that the afternoon storm was more violent than normal.
Chipmunk near shelter
All’s well.
Eckville Shelter, PA. Today – 15.2 mi. Total – 1220.5 mi. Remaining – 955.7 mi.
Monday, July 14
It was a long day and hard. AT hikers complain about Pennsylvania’s sharp jumbled rocks. I thought those complaints were overblown until today. The rocks really hurt my feet and slowed me don today. This is the first day I would have traded my trail runners for a heavy pair of boots. My thin soles hardly give any protection from the sharp rocks.
Rocky PA Trails.
Again, the best stories are about the people I've met. I guess I’m a little lonely since Animal stayed an extra day in Port Clinton. I saw a man and his three young sons at an overlook. I went over to check the view and to say hi. I always like the zany questions kids ask about thru-hiking. These kids asked how far it was from Georgia to Maine. One was maybe eight and the twins were about six. I told them to guess. They conferred and guessed 30 miles. Anyway, Mark, the father, worked for Backpacker Magazine when it was based in PA. He stayed in PA when it moved to Colorado. Mark asked good questions about the AT and gave me some water since I was on a ridge with few spring. Then he gave me a fruit drink and some fruit bars. They couldn’t have been nicer.
Blueberry Patch
I have some unfortunate trail attrition to report. A hiker called Nips who I just caught up to had to walk off trail when his reserve unit got activated to the Middle East. In the past when someone has gone off trail and out of this blog, I’ve casually written “good luck.” I really mean it this time. Keep your head down and you eyes open Nips.
That reminds me of something that happened a couple of months ago that I didn’t write down. Way back in North Carolina I stopped for water with some Army Rangers who were out for training. The Rangers asked me what I was doing and I told them. They were really impressed with the idea of hiking 2,000+ miles and said so. They gave me a “Who-Ah” as I walked away. I tried to take it with good grace but I was embarrassed. They are defending the country; I’m going for a walk. They should get the “Who-Ah.”
I remain totally healthy and I’m moving north steadily. People like Nips and the Rangers make me feel like my health is only due to the fact that Fate deems me too insignificant to trifle with. Here I am though, healthy and committed to my project, whatever it may be worth.
All’s well.
Outerbridge Shelter, PA. Today – 24.2 mi. Total – 1244.7 mi. Remaining – 931.5 mi.
Tuesday, July 15
I started my day hiking through the Palmerton, PA Superfund site. About 100 years ago a company started smelting zinc nearby and they polluted so liberally that it killed every living thing on Blue Mountain. I was warned not to drink from springs around the mountain due to heavy metal contamination (Cadmium 2?). When the EPA started pressuring the company to stop polluting and clean up Blue Mountain in the late 70’s, the company shut its doors instead. The Federal government, meaning you taxpayers, was left to clean up the mess. They are using something called Ecoloam, a mix of garbage and human waste to replace the soil that eroded after the plants died. I caught a whiff of it occasionally as I hiked along. It seems to be working because I saw some grass and scrub growing. Unfortunately, hikers keep trampling it because our feet hurt from the bare rock. There aren’t any good guys.
Palmerton, PA and rusted out factories.
Palmerton Superfund Site
There wasn’t a single good water source on the trail today. I made 21/2 liters last all day. I finally hit a spring and set up camp. I’m not the only one. I’m camping with Green Tea, Feral, Mike, and Donnie. Donnie is fully recovered from the dehydration that sidelined him back in Daleville. I hit camp and drank two liters.
All’s well.
Leroy Smith Shelter, PA. Today – 16.7 mi. Total – 1261.4 mi. Remaining – 914.8
Wednesday, July 16
I’m camping in the backyard of a Presbyterian church that allows hikers a shower and a free place to stay. I took the opportunity to have one more Pennsylvania cheese steak sub, from Doughboy’s Pizza, and it was excellent. I’ve caught back up to the big bunch of hikers I was around after Duncannon. There must be 20 people here behind the church.
Early Morning in Eastern PA
More attrition. Ularu is leaving because of a serious leg injury. The interesting part is that his friend, Slayer, is hiking on. Slayer only came to hike the AT because Ularu wanted to. Now Ularu is off and Slayer is still going north. I’m starting to think that my continued progress north has little to do with skill or fitness or determination. I think now that I have two things going for me. First, I have been lucky with health. Second, I have nothing to rush home to. No home or job, so I might as well keep hiking.
Two Lily Pad Photographs. Delaware Water Gap
I’m sleeping behind the church again tomorrow to rest my sore feet and to let Animal catch up. Samson is a couple days back visiting family.
All’s well.
Delaware Water Gap, PA. Today – 20.2 mi. Total – 1281.6 mi. Remaining – 894. 6
