Tuesday, May 20

Taking a half-day off in Damascus. After this, my next break is nine days or so away at Pearisburg. I'll be crossing the Virginia Highlands, an area I have been looking forward to. It is noted for its feral ponies and the last mountains over 5,000 feet in elevation I will see until New Hampshire.

We took a short day and got to the hostel early. We have it filled up. Jogle, Becca, and I got there just ahead of Campfire and Samson. There was already an Englishman called The General there. We all just fit. Jogle and The General started speaking incomprehensible British to each other. Here is The General's story as Jogle told it later:

The General, who is retired but very fit, thru-hiked two years ago and loved it. When he got home, he couldn't stop thinking about it. He would sit at home staring at the wall dreaming of the trail. His wife started to get concerned. Finally, she accused him of having an affair that caused his distraction. He confessed that he couldn't get the trail off his mind, so she sent him back here to do it again.

Most of us are here because we are at a stopping point in our lives. I got my Masters but had no job prospects. The General is retired. Others are just coming out of divorces, bad jobs, or losing a job. At some point, all of us heard about the AT and thought that made sense. We needed adventure or quiet or something else we thought we could find out here. So here we are, only distinguishable from your average vagrant by our dry-fit shirts and fancy boots. Will walk for food.

All's Well.

Damascus, VA. Today - 10.0 miles, Total - 461.1 miles.

Wednesday, May 21

I could have gotten down today, but the AT wouldn't let me! Jogle stayed in Damascus to watch Manchester United play Chelsea in a big soccer match. Becca stayed also. It was tough leaving good companions but I needed to move on. I left the hostel at 7:00 am, just as last night's rain stopped. I saw the sunlight peek out and I gathered myself to start hiking alone. Just then, Suzanne, who owns the Hiker's Inn Hostel, met me on the porch with a tray of pumpkin chocolate chip muffins. So I turned around, went back into the hostel, and we all ate muffins together. I started a second time at 7:20 and made it as far as the coffee shop where there was a sign advertising their omelet special. I actually started hiking at 8:20.

I moved slowly until 10:00, feeling alone. At 10:00 I found a six-pack of Negro Modelo cooling in a stream next to a sign reading, "Good Luck 2008 Thru-Hikers." Well, it's five o'clock somewhere. With the sun shinning and a beer in my belly, along with a ham and cheese omelet and two muffins, I went slowly up the trail. Knowing it would be a short day, I took it slow and had several breaks. Now I am tenting outside a shelter listening to a former thru-hiker give condescending advice about tents and hammocks. Guys who have hiked this before are good sources of information, but they have an ego about their feats.

All's well.

Lost Mountain Shelter. Today - 15.8 miles, Total - 476.9 miles.

Thursday, May 22

Let me mention a couple fads on the AT. First, lots of guys are wearing hiking kilts. I like them in theory. They don't chafe and if you get cold you can pull on thermal underwear easily. Its not for me though. I'm attached to the pockets in my cargo shorts. Lots of things need to go in them. Second, I've seen a few hammocks. These aren't your father's hammocks. They come with mosquito netting and a rain fly. There is a slit in the side so you can stand up into it and your body weight keeps the slit closed once you are in it. In certain areas where tenting isn't allowed, hammocks are because they are lower impact. The one criticism I hear is that they aren't as warm as tents. Because of that I have delayed deploying mine. It has been unseasonably cold since I hit North Carolina. No doubt though, I'll try the hammock somewhere in Virginia.

Did I mention that I love Virginia? Damascus is my favorite trail town. The residents were friendly towards hikers and the restaurants were tasty and affordable. No rain has hit me in Virginia. Like Camelot, it has only rained at night. Its warmer, although I still wear long sleeves when I hike. Also, Virginia is home to the Grayson Highlands, my new favorite part of the trail.

I climbed slowly up to the ridge, where I had my first lunch. I zipped along the ridge to Thomas Knob Shelter, where I had my second lunch. After that, it was Wonderland. There were no big trees so I had great views from every knob. The wild ponies walked right up to check me out. I walked through thickets of Rhododendron and over rocky summits. It looked drier up there than in the valley. The colors were more yellow than green, broken up by a red leafed shrub I will have to look up. Even the soil felt different under my feet; drier and crumbly.

I took lots of pictures but my light, compact Canon isn't up to capturing vistas like that. Sorry Dad, I'm sending you lots of so-so pics of the Grayson Highlands. I liked being alone for that because I could go at my own pace, wander down side trails, and take pictures. On the other hand, I would have loved to have shared the sights with Jogle or Animal. Where is Animal? I haven't even heard a trail rumor. Anyway, it was the best walk so far and if I learn that Grayson Highlands State Park is looking for a park historian, they won't even have to pay me. Room, board, and two days off a week for exploring. If tomorrow's hike is like today's, I might take it super slow and make up the miles later. This is what I wanted to see. It had the same impact on me as the first time I saw the Plains' endless horizons or the first time I went into Utah's canyon country. If you ever have the chance, this is must-hike territory. I don't know why there isn't a National Park.

Is all well? You know it is!

Wise Shelter. Today - 17.3 miles, Total - 494.2 miles.

Friday, May 23

I roared past the 500 mile mark today. Virginia continues to be good to me. It was another pretty day. A 2005 thru-hiker was at a road crossing serving sandwiches along with veggies and dip. I did 20 miles on the gently rolling hills. Another easy 22 miles from here is Atkins, where there is a cheap motel and a truck stop diner. Luxury embodied.

I'm camping with four other people who I didn't know but I found to be very nice. One of them, Rainbow, is hiking in a walking cast. She broke her ankle in North Carolina but since there was no doctor around, she walked on it for 40 miles hoping it would get better. She finally got to a doctor who told her to quit hiking. She refused and they compromised with a week off and the walking cast and boot. She probably can't make it to Maine at her pace but she is getting the most out of her hike. I've met some really tough people out here.

This is Jogle's second stab at the trail. He came out here in March to do it but didn't get past Atlanta. The day after his plane landed he got the news that his sister had died, so he had to turn around and go back to England. Three weeks later he was back here to try again.

I met a southbound thru-hiker with artificial feet. There was a blind man on the trail earlier. I know several hikers who have overcome illnesses and minor injuries. If there is one constant among thru-hikers it is their ability to overcome obstacles. I'm glad to be a part of it.

All's well.

Trimpi Shelter. Today - 20.0 miles, Total - 514.2 miles.

Saturday, May 17

Another day at Trail Days. Jogle and I ate junk food and hung out with Rodeo. We found Mas who shaved and we didn't recognize him at first. We ate $4 all-you-can-eat pancakes for breakfast, retrieved our repaired equipment, and watched the town parade. Fun!

I met a guy who had a T-shirt that read, "Bill Bryson is a Candy-Ass." Bryson, the author of A Walk in the Woods, is one of the most controversial figures in AT history. Many thru-hikers think that by writing about the AT from the perspective of a chubby, out-of-shape wannabe hiker, he encouraged people to attempt the trail who didn't belong here. That is called "The Byson Effect." Bryson himself only managed 800 or so miles and he is criticized out here for not getting the full trail experience.

Personally, I think the attention Bryson's bestseller got for the trail is good for the trail. Plus it is a fun read. You should give it a look if you haven't already. Be warned though, it is not a "how-to" book and Bryon's experience is very different from that of any hiker I have encountered.

I've got a ride to the Kincora Hostel tonight, then we pick up where we left off tomorrow morning.

All's Well.

Trail Days. Today - 0.0 miles, Total - 410.9 miles.

Sunday, May 18

We left Kincora Hostel for the last time this morning and I was ready. I've had enough sitting around, I'm here to hike. There is a third member of our party today. Becca, a former debutante from Florida, has hooked on. She has a mouth like a stevedore and after some particularly colorful language, Jogle or I will ask, "Did they teach that at finishing school?" She is a tough hiker. She left her group when they wanted to take a day off and she didn't. I'm glad to be with her and Jogle. I had enough of the party crowd at Trail Days.

I've seen more drug use on the trail than I have since my early 20s. I don't like it. This trail is primarily an endurance challenge to me. I don't like that people use it as an excuse to party. Some hikers see thru-hiking as an act of rebellion against the 9-5 work world. The use of drugs is an extension of that rebellion. I'm all for looking for alternative ways to make a living, but I don't see drug use as a useful part of the process. In fact, the AT has kept me away from alcohol, my drug of choice. I'll come off the trail cleaner and fitter than ever. That's what an endurance jock wants.

Miserable weather today. Cold, rainy, and windy. Fresh from two days off, I pushed through 17.5 miles in seven hours, good time in these conditions. I fell once but no damage done. I got to the shelter early but I was so tired and cold I didn't want to do anything except change into dry clothes and get into the sleeping bag. I lay in the shelter, shivering, for an hour or so. Two section hikers who were at the shelter shared their lentil soup with me. That helped a lot. By the time Jogle and Becca came in, about 90 minutes after me, I was warm and nibbling on nuts and granola.

It is still raining but the forecast is good for tomorrow.

All's well.

Vandeventer Shelter. Today - 17.5 miles, Total - 428.4 miles.

Monday, May 19

We did 23 miles across easy terrain today. Low, rolling hills the entire way. I'm tenting outside a shelter that has a reputation for being more mouse-infested than most. There are three section hikers in the shelter who probably don't know better and one ultra-light backpacker who doesn't carry a tent. I recently heard a good definition of an ultra-light backpacker. It's someone who is dedicated to minimizing weight while maximizing mooching.

While mooching off other thru-hikers is frowned upon, getting food from weekenders or picnicers is admired. Becca favors the following line for approaching those with coolers. "Excuse me, I'm a thru-hiker and I've been out here for five weeks drinking plain water. If I could have a few ice cubes out of your cooler so I could drink ice water, it would make my day!" She claims the approach always earns a soda and sometimes it gets the hiker holy grail . . . free bear.

Two hikers just came into camp finishing a 30 mile day. Campfire got his name because he smokes, Samson has long hair. Back before the Smokies, they were hiking with a partying crowd but the partiers dropped out and Samson and Campfire kept going. They are good guys. Rumor is that Campfire has had blister problems from day one but keeps plugging away.

Back to the ultra-light guy though. He has no tent. Since he ate a cold dinner, I'm guessing he doesn't carry a stove. Instead of a sleeping bag, he has a light blanket and sleeps with that and his coat wrapped around him. That doesn't sound like fun. I like to think that I hit a middle ground between the people who take the AT too seriously and the people who use the trail as an excuse to party. I guess everyone thinks their own way is best though.

Jogle, our stats guru, tells me we passed the 20 percent mark today. One-fifth done around lunchtime today.

All's well.

Abingdon Gap Shelter. Today - 22.7 miles, Total - 451.1 miles.

Here is another set of photographs from the last two weeks.

Is this a baby copperhead snake?



Mas taking a dip.



Blazing Star and Jogle on Big Bald



Blazing Star, Jogle, and Crest on Big Bald.



Uncle Johnny's Hostel.



Greasy Creek, home of Steve.



Chimney left on Roan Mountain.



I took this photo while eating lunch on a TN bald.



Overmountain Shelter.



A "kissing gate." Animals can't get through. Backpackers can.



A cow on the Trail.



Tent City at Trail Days.



Bridge to nowhere.



Laurel Falls #1.



Laurel Falls #2.



Me on a narrow section of Trail.



Nick Grindstaff Monument.



Same. Inscription says, "Lived alone, suffered alone, Died alone."



The AT in farm country.



Me at the VA state line.



Jogle, Becca, and Vegas entering Damascus.

Day 27 - Monday, May 12

It was a grim day today. The AT giveth and the AT taketh away and today was a bad one. I can't complain because the last two days were terrific but today dampened my spirits. Blazing Star took a zero day because of shin splints. She was really down about it. She iced it last night but was still limping this morning. Fedex canceled his hike with leg problems. Matt is taking a couple of days off to visit family in this area. Phil and I walked alone all day. It was cold, windy, and overcast. We did long miles because it was too cold to stop,

Unaka Mountain was one highlight. At 5,180 feet elevation, it stuck up into the clouds. The pine needles were so thick that it was hard to spot the trail. After that though, it was just long, cold miles to the hostel. And what a hostel! There are five of us in a wooden bunkhouse with no insulation or electricity. Light comes from one bare bulb. Good thing that the Big Agnes bag is rated to 15 degrees. The owner is gone and the employee just smoked enough pot to make himself incoherent. He was just lecturing us on King Midas' rule of Turkey. The guy is outrageous. If I could write down every nonsensical thing he said in the last two hours, I would have a book.

I want to leave on a good note, so let me tell you that I had a terrific dinner in a Mexican restaurant in Erwin yesterday. Phil, Fedex, Blazing Star, and I went through two bowls of chips and some big burritos.

Sorry, back to the hostel. The neighbor apparently dislikes having it here. He is driving his yard tractor back and forth at ten at night in an effort to keep us awake. No worries, we have the hostel employee to do that. Incidentally, he says that if the angry neighbor comes over we "are allowed to defend ourselves." I swear, I'm not making this up.

All's well.

Greasy Creek Hostel. Day 27 - 23.3 miles, Total - 363.1 miles.

Day 28 - Tuesday, May 13

I was much better today. The weather was very nice. It was almost warm and it was sunny all day. Phil is having stomach problems so we pulled into camp early. That turned out well because we are in the best shelter so far. It is an old barn that was converted into a shelter. I put up my tent anyways because the forecast is good until tomorrow pm. I'm next to some section hikers who brought a radio so I'm feeling close to the rest of the world. This spot, by the way, is near the route taken by Colonial mountain men to attack the British at King's Mountain. Another historical note is that I passed close to President Andrew Johnson's birthplace.

Another story from the Greasy Creek Hostel. As we were leaving, Steve, the stoned employee, told us that he was from a really intellectual state, Florida. Sometimes he feels out of place on the trail. He was fun. The owner, Connie, is very nice. I'm not sure how she wound up with Steve.

I've been trying to use trail names consistently but I've run into trouble with people I introduced on the blog before they had trail names. Let me reintroduce Phil as Jogle. I'm not going to try to explain why. It is an abbreviation for some Celtic words I couldn't spell with Google and a week to research. Matt is going by Mas, the Spanish word for "more."

I'm warm in my bag. The radio is playing an old Donovan song.

All's well.

Overmountain Shelter. Day 28 - 14.8 miles, Total - 377.9 miles.

Day 29 - Wednesday, May 13

I forgot about a Slim Jim I had in my pocket when I went to bed. Luckily, no bear raids. Jogle is feeling very bad today. His stomach is bothering him a lot. I hiked alone a lot today but Jogle caught up near the end of the day so we did the last few miles together. It was gray and drizzly but much warmer.

I've spent the last few days in Tennessee's Roan Mountains. The Roans are one of the more attractive places I've hiked. The balds, meadow covered mountains, are fantastic. We went from one to the other with great views the whole time. Today we dropped to lower elevations. Warmer and easier going.

All's well.

No idea where I am. Day 28 - 23.1 miles (?), Total - 401.0 (?)

Day 29 - Thursday, May 15

Change of plans! Instead of killing ourselves trying to make Trail Days in Damascus, we are going to catch a ride, then get one back to here on Sunday. It might put me a half-day behind plan but I'm looking forward to seeing Trail Days. Besides, Jogle and I are both wearing down and we are both having some minor equipment problems.

Kincora Hostel is one of the better hostels I have come across. Not as good as Elmer's but a close second. Bob, the owner, is an AT encyclopedia. He told me all about the trail coming up. Now he is telling stories about past hikers. He met a hiker named "Withwit." He said it stood for "What The Hell Was I Thinking?"

Miscellaneous Notes:
- We are over 400 miles. Yeah!

- Grasshoppers are out. In an area with dead leaves, they sound like rain falling.

- The Forest Service has been doing burns along the route to get rid of dead leaves and wood. I passed one one a few days ago that was fresh enough to still have live embers. I wonder what the do with hikers as they do burns?

- Top five moments on the AT so far, in no order.
1. Day 1, cresting Springer Mountain and seeing the first white blaze.
2. My encounter with the food-stealing bear. Makes a great story.
3. The last day in the Smokies with Animal when we hiked above, through, and below low clouds.
4. Going off trail in Hiawassee with Mike and eating at a country buffet. Remembering what it was like to be clean and full.
5. Summiting Big Bald with Jogle. Blazing Star and Crest were just ahead of us and we all rested at the top sharing snacks and enjoying the view.

Next stop, Trail Days!

All's well.

One more thought: At Greasy Creek, I actually thought to myself, "I could take a shower but I just had one two days ago."

Kincora Hostel. Day 29 - 9.9 miles, Total - 410.9 miles.

Day 30 - Friday, May 16

Trail Days started to day! Jogle and I got constructive stuff done. We got our water filters serviced, our trekking poles serviced, and got a torn stuff sack sewed up. We did fun stuff like watching a documentary about hiking the Continental Divide Trail. We also met people we hadn't seen lately and got news about others.

- Gnormal fell behind me in the Smokies when he took a day off after a fall.
- Jefe went off trail for a friend's wedding. He and Gnormal are meeting in Erwin and hiking north together.
-Fedex gave up on the hike but hitched to Trail Days. He reports that Blazing Star rested her shin for one day then set off for a 16 mile day. If she hikes instead of coming to Trail Days she will be ahead of me.
- Mas is rumored to be here but neither Jogle or I have seen him.
- No sighting or rumor of Animal. Like Blazing Star, if she is hiking while I'm socializing, she will be back up with me.
- Rodeo has hip problems and took a week off. It seems bad to me, but Rodeo seems confident.

Big Agnes not only makes a fine sleeping bag, they have the best party here. They had a singer/guitarist, beer, wine, chili, hot dogs, and chips. All very good. The Big Agnes rep, Alan, also arranged to have a summer weight bag shipped to me on the trail. Great people.

Our plan is to get a ride back to Kincora tomorrow afternoon then start hiking north Sunday morning. We should walk into Damascus on Tuesday and spend a night in a hotel there. Jogle wants to take an extra day off there but I don't, so we might split up after that. It would be handy if Animal or Blazing Star were around. I've found that I like hiking alone but I hate camping alone. We'll see who is at Kincora when we get there.

All's well.

Trail Days. Day 30 - 0 miles, Total - 410.9 miles.

Day 21 - Tuesday, May 6

After the bear fiasco, Animal and I woke up early and cleaned up the mess. Mr. Bear cleaned out my pasta, granola, trail mix, and a Milky Way I had been saving. He ripped open my Cajun rice but didn't eat it. Bears must not like cayenne. He left my toothpaste and vitamins alone. He made the same mess of Animal's bag. We had a breakfast of vitamins and water and hiked 12 miles to Hot Springs.

Hot Springs isn't much. It exists because the AT runs through, bringing hiker money, and there is a river that kayakers like nearby. Animal and I got to the only pub around noon and ate burgers and drank beer. Soon, Phil walked in. He had fallen behind us when he went to see Gatlinburg. He found it 'tacky." I live in Vegas but I agree. Phil also had bear problems that night. The bear went to Phil's campground. two miles south, right after leaving us. Phil was camping with a hiker named Spot, who is noted for his ability to sleep through anything. Sure enough, Spot slept through the bear tearing down their food bags. Phil yelled at Spot but Spot didn't hear him. What Phil didn't know was that his bag had rolled right next to his tent. The bear sat at the top of the hill and ate Spot's food, then went down after Phil's.

Poor Phil was scared in his tent, hearing the bear approach. Then he heard the nylon bag rip and thought the bear was tearing into his tent. Phil jumped, screaming out of his tent and found himself three feet from the bear who was eating his trail mix. He ran to wake up Spot. Phil shook him hard and shined a light in his face. He screamed, "A bear is eating our breakfast."

Spot opened his eyes slowly and said, "No thanks, I'll have breakfast tomorrow." Then he rolled over and went back to sleep. The bear finished Phil's food and went away.

I'm spending the next two nights at Elmer's. Elmer has a big Victorian house and lets thru-hikers stay there. He cooks vegetarian breakfasts for us. My total bill for two nights and two breakfasts is $42. Good deal. Elmer is a great guy. He was the head pastor at Duke University in the 1960s but got into trouble for being too close to radical student organizations. Now he runs the hostel. He is very happy that Obama won the North Carolina primary tonight.

All's well.

Hot Springs, NC. Day 21 - 12.1 miles, Total - 271.7 miles

Day 22 - Wednesday, May 7

Rested and resupplied today. Not much to report. Phil figures we are on-eighth done. Matt came into town, bad feet and all, so he, Phil and I will hike together tomorrow. I couldn't find shoelaces thin enough to fit through my eyelets so I had to use a length of my bear bag line to replace a broken shoelace. It doesn't match but it works well.

I met Animal's boyfriend today. He built her a solar battery charger that is better than the ones on the market. I tried to talk him into going into business but he wasn't interested. Oh well.

All's well.

Hot Springs, NC. Day 22 - 0.0 miles, Total - 271.7 miles

Day 23 - Thursday, May 8

It was a pretty morning but an ugly, rainy afternoon. We all got in our tents early to stay warm and dry. It was dull hiking. We found a snake and got some good pictures. There is a 50 percent chance of rain tomorrow. Like they say, No rain, No Maine.

All's well.

Allen Gap. Day 23 - 13.7 miles, Total - 285.4 miles

Day 24 - Friday, May 9

Trail rumors are even less reliable than the usual kind. Today I was told that the founder of Amazon.com came up with the idea while thru-hiking . Somebody please Google that and let me know in the comments.

I get trail rumors in one of two ways. First, we often talk to hikers coming from the opposite direction. They give us information about upcoming terrain, animal problems, or hikers who got ahead. Second, there are shelter registers. Every shelter has a register in which hikers can record their plans or thoughts. Shelter registers are useful to rangers when a hiker goes missing. I sign them all, even if I just stop for a snack.

We did over 17 miles today and I feel fine. I was happy to see the shelter at the end of the day, but it wasn't too bad. 18 miles tomorrow we think. Phil, Matt, and I are collectively excited to break the 300 mile mark. Those landmarks are exciting on the trail. By any other standard, hiking 300 miles would be an accomplishment, but out here it means you are almost one-seventh done. We have a good forecast for tomorrow but heavy rains predicted for Sunday.

To paraphrase Roadhouse, the old Swayze movie, "The name is Vegas." Like any good trail name, it settled on me more than the other way around. I signed a couple of shelter registers as "Vegas Dave" to differentiate myself from other Dave's. Before I knew it, I was Vegas. One hiker, Free Will, is a fan of the movie Swingers and yells "Vegas, Baby!" every time he sees me.

I talked to a hiker named Crest, who plans on stopping at Harper's Ferry, flying out West and spending a couple of months on the Pacific Crest Trail. Not a bad idea. He'll see some of both trails this summer. Most of us won't.

All's well. Vegas style.

Flint Mountain Shelter. Day 24 - 17.6 miles, Total - 303.0 miles

Day 25 - Saturday, May 10

We had a trail magic day today. An hour into our hike, we crossed a road and found a troop of Boy Scouts serving breakfast to thru-hikers. We ate burritos and biscuits. Very tasty. The Scouts were very friendly and they gave us good guidance about local topography.

Later, as Phil and I approached Big Bald, the tall mountain around here, we found coffee and cookies on the trail for thru-hikers. In both cases I gave this URL, so thanks to the Scouts of Johnson City, TN and whoever left the goodies by Big Bald.

As we crested Big Bald, we caught up to Crest and Blazing Star. Blazing Star is a tri- athlete I've been leapfrogging with since Fontana Dam. We all took off our packs and relaxed. The 360 degree view was terrific. It had been cloudy in the morning but the afternoon was clear and we could see for miles.

Trail Days, the big annual hikers festival, is in Damascus, VA next weekend. I'd like to go so I can meet thru-hikers. Also, representatives from equipment companies are there so maybe I can get my malfunctioning water filter fixed. We might have to find a way to get a ride up there.

I bear bagged extra careful because of rumors of a bear on the next mountain. We'll see.

All's Well (and no bear trouble during the night)

Bald Mountain Shelter. Day 25 - 18.9 miles, Total - 322.9 miles

Day 26 - Sunday, May 11

Got in a fast 16.9 miles today, mostly downhill into Erwin, TN. I am hiking with Phil, Blazing Star, and Fed Ex, who is a section hiker. I also went fast because my pack was light. I'm almost out of food. There isn't much here so we went to the discount grocery store in town. As I've indicated, I'm not picky about what I eat, but the pickings were slim. Here is my food bag for the six days to Damascus, VA.

6 cans Vienna Sausage (came in a six pack)
2 packs instant mashed potatoes
3 packs Lipton pasta sides
1 pack instant rice
16 cherry Pop-Tarts
9 Oat and Honey Granola bars
12 Slim Jims
1 big bag trail mix
4 pouches instant cocoa

I would never dream of eating this way off trail. The others are similarly rationed. The Vienna sausages will get cut up and cooked with the pasta, potatoes, or rice. The Pop-Tarts are for breakfast. The rest is lunch or snacks.

I am staying at Uncle Johnny's hostel. $15 gets me one of the nine bunks in the bunkroom and one towel for the shower. $2 extra for sheets. No sheets for me. I love my Big Agnes sleeping bag. Uncle Johnny is trying to sell me a new and better water filter. $69.99. I might do it and return the old one to REI. They give store credit on their returned stuff.

Phil calculates that when we are done, we will have spent over one percent of our lives hiking the AT.

All's well.

Erwin, TN. Day 26 - 16.9 miles, Total - 339.8 miles